British Vogue's Fashion Features Director, Julia Hobbs
Forces of Fashion is a concentrated eight-hour conference that captures insights and creative processes from some of the most influential figures in the industry. Exclusively hosted in New York and London, I was lucky enough to attend this year’s one in London hosted at Central Saint Martins. With talks from the likes of Law Roach, Saoirse Ronan, Stella McCartney, and the designer of the moment, John Galliano, it was not to be missed. The key topics that emerged from the day were sustainability, authenticity, fashion innovation, and the importance of collaboration.
Ismaya Ffrench's Stencilling demonstation
Ismaya Ffrench and Alva Claire
British Vogue’s Fashion Features Director, Julia Hobbs, opened our first talk of the day from makeup artist Ismaya Ffrench and model of the year, Alva Claire, interviewed by British Vogue's contributing beauty editor, Tish Weinstock. We learnt all about Ismaya’s journey into the fashion industry and how she started with no knowledge of the fashion industry and only had Vogue as a reference point. Her journey into makeup begun via men’s makeup and editorial work before branching out into womenswear fashion shows. Ismaya is known for her creative approach with makeup and in particular, her flower stencilling technique, which we were lucky enough to see a demo of. Her key takeaway into the industry was the importance of being organic and adaptable, especially in fast-paced show environments. Model Alva Claire (nominated for Model of the Year), spoke about the adrenaline rush of runway shows, recalling her nervousness backstage at Chanel’s Show during Paris Fashion Week. She shared that the perfect look often comes together just seconds before the show starts, highlighting the intense pace of a model’s life.
Stella McCartney and British Vogue’s Head of Editorial Content, Chioma Nnadi
Stella McCartney
Interviewed by Chioma Nnadi, Stella McCartney discussed her unconventional path into fashion, inspired by a deep respect for animals and ethics. Her strong ethical background stems from her family values, with Stella making a conscious decision early in her career to avoid using animal products like leather and wool in her designs. At the time, this was an unconventional choice as animal-based materials were considered the hallmark of luxury. McCartney has continued to be an ethical fashion pioneer with her entire design philosophy rooted in sustainability. In her designs, she uses faux leather, organic cotton, and alternative materials like algae-based yarns, lab-grown sequins, and leather alternatives made from wine and grape skins becoming one of the first designers to integrate sustain able sourcing and environmental responsibility into high fashion. McCartney also stressed the importance of media support for innovators in the fashion industry. She believes that the press plays a crucial role in amplifying sustainable practices and helping to bring about policy changes that incentivize the use of sustainable materials.
Munroe Bergdorf and Law Roach
Law Roach
Law Roach is a renowned image architect and stylist, widely known for his transformative work with high-profile clients like Zendaya, Celine Dion, and many others. He has made a significant mark in the fashion industry (including winning the prestigious CFDA Stylist of the Year Award) not just through his styling, but by reimagining what it means to "curate" a public persona, making him one of the most influential figures in modern fashion. Roach coined (and trademarked) the term ‘Image Architect’, which he defines as a stylist who builds and shapes a person's visual identity. The key is in understanding not just the clothes, but the non-verbal communication through a person’s body language, posture, and attitude and through what he defined as ‘decoding the drama’, not just dressing clients but creating moments that speak volumes through visual storytelling, where every detail of the outfit plays a part in delivering a statement. Roach views each red-carpet appearance as a storytelling opportunity, where a look can evolve into a narrative that lasts beyond the event. He believes that the public's perception of a celebrity’s brand is influenced heavily by these moments, and he works to curate these stories in a way that positions his clients as not just fashion icons, but cultural forces. Today, image architects like Roach are seen as integral to a celebrity’s success, not just behind the scenes but as public-facing figures in their own right.
Saoirse Ronan and Jacqueline Durran
Saoirse Ronan and Jacqueline Durran
Acclaimed actress, Saoirse Ronan and Oscar-winning costume designer, Jacqueline Durran delved into the art of costume design and how it intersects with fashion. Ronan has worked closely with Durran on multiple projects such as Atonement, Little Women, and Brooklyn. Durran’s costumes are not just about aesthetics but about enhancing the storytelling and conveying deeper layers of meaning within the context of the film. Her process starts with research and narrative, making sure that a costume not only aligns with the film’s narrative and setting but also with the character’s identity. Then it is all about ensuring the costume is a definite form of visual storytelling. For instance, in Little Women, each character’s wardrobe was designed to reflect their personality and growth throughout the film, so they all had a specific colour palette and unique design elements, such as custom embroidered flowers on slippers. Character centred design is key in crafting clothes that support the emotional journey of the character, in Atonement, the iconic green dress worn by Keira Knightley was not only a visually stunning piece but also a symbol of the character's inner conflict that became a key symbol in the narrative. Durran acknowledged that while she doesn’t design with the intention of setting trends, she is aware of how her work resonates with audiences and can affect fashion in the real world. The iconic green dress in Atonement, became a cultural reference, and Little Women sparked conversations about how modern-day women interpret historical clothing.
Christopher Kane and Lena Dunham
Christopher Kane and Lena Dunham
Christopher Kane is known for his bold, innovative designs and a distinctive ability to blend commercial appeal with artistic expression. His conversation with Lena Dunham shed light on his creative journey and personal philosophy. Kane, like many other British designers, honed his craft at Central Saint Martins (CSM). He shared the significance of his early experiences there, noting that his work was deeply rooted in experimentation and pushing boundaries. One of the most defining moments of his career was his first collection, which was characterized by its handmade, raw quality. He described a process of "owning" his designs and staying true to his instincts, which helped him carve out a unique space in the fashion world where creativity is paramount, and boundaries are meant to be pushed. Kane’s collections have often been influenced by pop culture, and his first major collection was inspired by American beauty pageants. This exploration of glamour, beauty, and the complexity behind those concepts continues to inform his work. For Kane, fashion isn’t just about making clothes; it's about exploring ideas of beauty, identity, and society through the lens of fashion.
Gwendoline Christie and John Galliano
John Galliano
Arguably, the designer of the year thanks to his Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection (IYKYK) and one of fashion’s most iconic designers, some might describe John Galliano as a disciple of haute couture. His early career was shaped by his love of theatre. Galliano worked as a dresser at the National Theatre in London, where he encountered actors like Judi Dench and Bill Nighy. His time at Central Saint Martins was influenced by the underground cultural movements of the time. One of Galliano's first breakout moments was his graduate collection, Les Incroyables, that reflected his immersion in the world of theatre and ability to create immersive, narrative-driven experiences. His career-defining moment was his Autumn/Winter 1994 collection, a collection so groundbreaking it is still widely referenced today with Vogue Editor in Chief, Anna Wintour, still naming it her favourite collection to date. John Galliano's tenure at Maison Margiela (from 2014 onwards) is marked by a fascinating and bold fusion of his distinctive creativity with the house's conceptual, avant-garde ethos. Galliano’s creative process centres around imbuing his runway collections with a sense of storytelling that is as much about spectacle as it was about fashion. His takeaway message was stressing the significance of self-belief and listening to one's inner voice when crafting designs, stating that "God is inside you" and the dream must be realized from within.
British Vogue’s Head of Editorial Content, Chioma Nnadi
The overarching theme from the Vogue Forces of Fashion event is that fashion is driven by a sense of purpose, whether it’s addressing environmental impact, embracing diversity, or finding new ways to connect with the audience through technology and storytelling. Sustainability and innovation are no longer just trends but imperatives. Collaboration and authenticity remain core values for success, and as the industry continues to evolve, it’s clear that the future of fashion will be more inclusive, tech-driven, and socially conscious than ever before.
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